Smart Textiles – Kayleigh Mace

Thermochromics

Kayleigh — Mon, 24 Apr 2017 21:28:53 +0000

Moving on from the black thermochromic ink I wanted to test some of the other colours available. I decided to try 2 colours as they fit with the colours from my palette. These were a purple that changed the neon pink with heat and a yellow that turns neon yellow with heat. I tested them on a few colours and found that they only worked on the light colours, the dark fabrics absorbed the colours so they couldn't be seen. I'm happy with how they look on a white background so will be using them like this however if I wanted to use it on a dark fabric I could try discharging the fabric first and printing over the top of that.

The purple changed colour really well and there is a distinct difference in the change but the yellow is much more subtle and difficult to see. The print was tested on a few different white or light fabrics and worked on them all but with some variation on how solid the lines were. The print did not cover the organza as well as the cotton for example due to the structure of the fabric so a solid base will be required for the best appearance.

Going forward I will be using the purple within my samples as it works much better than the yellow. I will perhaps test the yellow again on an idea as I still have it to experiment with but with the change not working well I wouldn't want to rely on it as the feature of a design.

E-textiles light sensor experiment

Kayleigh — Tue, 11 Apr 2017 16:22:13 +0000

I ordered lots of e-textiles bits a few weeks ago and have been testing them to see how they work. I started with a battery holder with a built in light sensor which turns the leds on when the light level drops. I tried stitching a parallel circuit following a shape from my visual research to see if I could work out how to do it.

After I had completed the circuit and checked that it was working I attached clear tubes to the leds so I could test a design idea I had. I wanted to see if the light would travel down the tubes and create a fibre optic look. The tubing is quite stiff and difficult to work with so I will need to find something that is more flexible but for the technical testing it worked ok. I tested the idea in a dark room and these were the results.

The light does travel a bit but not as much as I had expected. I do however like the appearance of it with a subtle glow down the tube. The stitching of the conductive thread has come loose from being handled a lot so this is something I will need to address for the final design. I will also use more flexible tubing and smaller pieces as they are quite long due to it's lack of flexibility. 1 battery will light 5 leds as shown so this will need to be considered in the final design. I will be looking at using 2 batteries to power 10 leds and I'm hoping 2 sensors would react the same to the varying light levels.

More 3D printing embellishments

Kayleigh — Fri, 07 Apr 2017 19:14:02 +0000

Following on from my original tests I spent more time in rhino learning what I could do on the program. I really wanted to create ideas and shapes that were unique and couldn't be replicated through techniques such as laser cutting which is something I've used a lot in the past. At first it was difficult to get my head around how to create the 3D shapes accurately but with lots of practice I managed to produce some shapes I was happy with.

I learnt how to create a 'wavy' shape from drawing a motif in the top view and then editing the points in the right view so that the lines were no longer flat. The result was a 3D leaf shape that has movement no longer sits flat in the surface like the previous shapes.

From researching I came across a tool called cage edit which allowed me to edit lots of point on a shape and change their height to create caved in shapes. I used this tool on the flat leaf shapes I had drawn to create a 3 D surface which I lend put holes into. I wanted to combine some of the shapes in my research I felt a simple shape would work best with a leaf.

After these I continued to create a variety of shapes that I could use which resulted in these. They were all inspired by shapes in my visual research and created using the skills I had developed in the program. I'm really pleased with my progress and what I've been able to create in a short time. I now feel I have to confidence to work on these skills and refine them in the future to use the software more in my designs. I came onto the MA degree wanted to be able to use 3D printing and now I can.

So from these I selected the most appropriate shapes and 3D printed them.

They came out really well although you can start to see how the clear resin is affecting the glowing qualities in some of them. When printing the finals this is something I will need to consider and place them accordingly or use it as a feature. What was surprising was that the spring shape does in fact spring so has movement which was exciting and the shape sizes were also exactly what I had hoped. Going forward I will be printing the tubes, medium and small size, and the swirls. I would also like to print the leaf with the holes however the technician would like to try making a mold and casting it as an alternative method.

3D printing tests

Kayleigh — Fri, 24 Mar 2017 19:51:03 +0000

After testing the glow in the dark resin and developing some simple shapes from my visual research in Rhino and Maya I finally got the chance to 3D print some ideas. We had decided to use 1 part glow pigment to 3 part resin so started with mixing the printing resin in a cup with the pigment. It took quite a bit of mixing to get the consistency smooth as the pigment made the resin mixture thicker. Once mixed it was added to an empty cartridge and put into the machine with an older tray. As this was a new test for the machine and university we were unsure how it was going to work or if it even would but thankfully it seems to have worked really well. I was particularly grateful that the university were kind enough to pay for half of the mixture to help with costs provided they could use some of it to print their own examples with it being new to the university. The tank has to have a certain amount of resin it in to print so it had to have more resin in it than will actually to be used. It unfortunately also means that some of it will potentially be wasted if it cant be used in another way.

We decided to print solid shapes to begin with including 3 straight lines of varying lengths and 1 curved line. In addition to these we also printed 2 leaf shapes and, a screw and bolt for the uni. The mixture does clearly need shaking to re mix it before use to make sure it doesn't clog up the cartridge and that the pigments don't sink to the bottom.

The print took 3 hours and once finished had to be removed from the plate and washed in an alcohol bath.

After this the components were placed in a UV machine to set for an hour. The machine changed up the UV pigments in the components making them glow really bright when they were removed. This also proved that the process had worked with all the components glowing strongly when the lights were turned off.

The pigment had spread fairly evenly within the pieces with only the thinner layers showing some slight inconsistency. They aren't too heavy in weight either although if a lot were used in one sample it would make it quite heavy. Due to the weight I have stitched them onto neoprene and they would need to be used on a base fabric that could support their weight.

The appearance is plastic and so this needs to be considered in their use and there is a slight rough texture but I was informed they were printed on the lowest quality setting. I can see how these pieces could be used in my work and i'm excited to produce a design with the components. Next we are testing the hollow grid shapes to see how the scaffolding affects the design and whether they could be printed on this machine.

Ying Gao

Kayleigh — Wed, 22 Feb 2017 00:22:42 +0000

From my research I've come across Ying Gao on a few occasions and I am particularly fond of her designs. The use of smart textiles, e-textiles and programming in the garments is a great example of what can be achieved within the field. It is also good to see how the textile applications have been incorporated into a garment

(NO)WHERE (NOW)HERE

This project comprises of 2 dresses that are made using photoluminescent threads and embedded with eye tracking technology. The technology is activated by a spectators gaze which causes the dress to move. The photoluminscent threads are activated by absorbing natural daylight and then glowing when in a dark environment. I intend to use solar threads that work the same way within my project so its inspiring to see how another design has appraoched the idea of having them on a garment.

INCERTITUDES

This project consists of 2 garments that react to a spectators voice. The pins move to a spectators voice making them appear to engage in a conversation. I am interested in using sensors within my work but this is far more advanced than what I could achieve. I was fortunate enough to be able to see this dress up close at premiere vision and watch it move.

The Unseen

Kayleigh — Mon, 20 Feb 2017 23:14:37 +0000

The Unseen

My contextual research has led me to come across a company called The Unseen. Their website states that:

"T H E U N S E E N is a material exploration house that blends science into materials; focused on seeing the unseen."

There is a range of projects to view on their website showing how they have successfully combined science with materials with my favourite being 'Air'. This particular project has resulted in a material that changes colour to the wind and so reacts to the environment around it.

It was showcased as an interactive performance during London Fashion week in Feb 2014 in the Dead house Underneath Somerset House. The material was prepared into a capsule couture collection that included an exclusive piece which was supported by SWAROVSKI GEMSTONES. They state that for Air "THEUNSEEN has developed a form of wind reactive ink that changes colour upon contact with the air around us. Intended to reveal the otherwise unseen turbulence surrounding the human as it goes about its environment." The colours are beautiful but I also find the construction interesting as it seems to resemble feathers. Their experimental approach and use of smart textiles in fashion is inspiring, most of it may be unattainable to myseld but it is good to see how they used it in an end product.

More of their work can be seen on their website:

http://seetheunseen.co.uk/

And in case you haven't seen it yet their latest creation which was unveiled at London Fashion Week, Fire.

Fire_creative_concept_film from T H E U N S E E N on Vimeo.

Smart Fashion Research

Kayleigh — Wed, 15 Feb 2017 17:08:39 +0000

Whilst researching into smart fashion at the beginning of the project I came across Pauline Van Dongen a design studio that specilises in wearable technology. During my research I had found it difficult to find smart fashion that was particularly fashionable and where the design aesthetic had not been compromised for the technology. The work of this studio however focuses on creating garments that are wearable and fashionable containing the latest technological advancements. The website states that:

TECHNOLOGY IS NOT THE STARTING POINT OF OUR DESIGNS, IT IS NEVER ABOUT ‘TECHNOLOGY FOR TECHNOLOGY’S SAKE’. OUR DESIGNS BEGIN AND END WITH THE BODY, OR EVEN MORE SPECIFICALLY: A MOVING BODY IN SPACE.

Technology is something I would like to incorporate into my work so this studio has provided great inspiration to see how they have created designs where it has been successfully included in a fashionable garment. Although embroidery is not used one of the designs, the solar shirt, does give the impression of embroidery in how the solar film has been used.

Solar shift 2014

The solar shirt was created in collaboration with Holst Centre using film solar cells and integrated electronics in fabric. The following video shows how the solar shirt can be used in everyday life:

This was one of many projects that have been completed incorporating technology successfully into a fashionable garment that can be worn everyday. Now that i'm sampling ideas and looking at techniques to incorporate into my work I have revisited these designs as inspiration for how I could use smart textile applications for fashion. Although no embroidery has been used I can take inspiration from how the technology has been placed on the garments and where it has been used.

I also came across a blog for the studio which has some great inspirational photos alongside the work they have created.

http://paulinevandongen.tumblr.com/

Wearable Lab

Kayleigh — Sat, 11 Feb 2017 12:26:56 +0000

As a part of PV there was a section dedicated to wearable technology, fashion and materials. It was great to see the latest designs and a variety of new approaches to technology and, how it could be used within a product. These were my favourites on show:

Ezra + Tuba

Butterfly Dress

This dress incorporates e-textiles to create an interactive dress. The collaboration with Intel used the latest integrated textiles technology to create a dress where the butterflies react when someone approaches. They start to move flapping slowly and as someone gets closer the flapping increases. Finally they can released on mass by the person approaching or via an app connected to the dress.

https://iq.intel.com/fashion-metamorphosis-meet-the-butterfly-dress/

Sarah Angold

Kingla Necklace

Innovative use of laser cutting to create a wearable necklace. The shaping i found inspiring and it was nice to see a new approach to laser cutting that I hadn't seen much of before. It is an approach i could use when looking at creating 3D surfaces with laser cutting.

http://www.sarahangold.com/shop.html

Nervous Systems

Tetra Kinematics

3D Printed bracelet using triangular shaping. The shapes allow the bracelet to morph and move creating a product that is flexible. It is a technique that I have seen previously in the 3D printing exhibition for creating flexible surfaces. I haven't considered it to date for my work but it is something I could do later if it became appropriate.

https://n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com/shop/product.php?code=216&osCsid=fvsvc3gf64irl5g9hupdijssj0

There was quite a range of designs on show, all were inspiring and it was good to see it getting a platform at such a large trade show. It supports the idea of technology in fashion and that it is becoming a more viable application in garments and accessories. Both of the accessories are available for people to buy and so its clear that mass production is possible.

Print Development

Kayleigh — Wed, 18 Jan 2017 22:48:07 +0000

This week i did some further testing on the colour-shifting pigment to test how different black materials took the technique. There were mixed results as seen below. All of the materials took the printing however its strength varies between each fabric. The organza shows the pattern when exposed to light but can't be seen very well in all lights. The wool hardly took the print at all, more pulls might have been needed but the texture of the fabric might play a part in why it didn't work as well. The polyester took the print well although the print does appear slightly darker on it but again more pulls might be needed. Finally the leather was by far the most successful of the 4, the material held the print well and it shows through the effect better than any other tested to date. Knowing this I can plan a design to use the colour-shifting pigment to be printed onto the leather.

I also tried painting the thermochromic printing ink onto the digital embroidered leaves I had done the day before. The leaves were the wrong way round due to my mistake and too large to for the same pattern exposed onto the screen. As the plan was to print on top of the leaves with the thermochromic printing ink I decided to try painting it on in thin layers. The ink does react to heat well although despite best efforts it hasn't spread completely evenly onto the embroidery and so the colour change shows some the irregular surface. Its good to see it does work to paint on top of the embroidery so perhaps this is something the try printing properly on top of it later.

Finally i tested the photochromic printing ink however this caused a lot of problems. I hadnt realised that it was in fact a plastisol which meant that it had an oil based binder instead of a water based one. Although plastisol's are industry standard they are not permitted for use at the university as special chemicals have to be used to clean the screen. After getting help from the technicians to clean the screen I was told that I wouldn't be able to print with it and also wouldn't be able to use the glow in the dark or hydrochromic as it didn't say what type they were. I may be able to paint with these inks onto fabrics however i'd struggle to get an even layer. Other options include seeing they will allow me to use pigments mixed with a water based binder myself however i'm not sure if this would work. The samples i did print had to be heat fixed and it was suggested to do it in the heat press by holding it over the top but not shutting it. Although this dried the ink testing afterwards showed that it didn't work and there was no colour change. This could be due to not setting it as instructed as I was unable to do it at the uni. Despite the change in colour not working the contrast of surfaces does work really well so perhaps there is another way I could achieve this effect.

Sustainable approach

Kayleigh — Wed, 18 Jan 2017 11:01:25 +0000

Sustainability and Technology

After a lecture and workshop with Angharad Mclean about sustainability with design and how it can be approached I've started to look for information which re-enforces my approach to it within my project. It was talked about how much of a challenge it is to be completely sustainable and how choosing areas within a production cycle is a possible approach to contributing to sustainability. My project does involve the use of chemicals, plastics and components that may not be easily recyclable so I have had to really consider how I can incorporate a sustainable element. I have researched into the possibility of having smart textiles producing their own renewable energy so for example solar panels on clothing. I have also looked at using recycled fabrics such as recycled plastics. The main idea however that I am pursuing is the idea of instilling meaning and a personal identity into the textiles in which the wearer would want to keep them longer due to a personal attachment to it. E-textiles for example can be used to produce clothing that can be programmed and so the wear could change the pattern of garment to suit them. This would create a personal attachment to the garment due to the wearer being able to personalise it to them. The longevity of it would depend on how well the garment is made and the production of tools for example an app that would allow the wearer to create their own patterns or download pre made ones. Further research into this led me to find this article which sums up the same idea and talks about Cute Circuit's and Switch Embassy's programmable t-shirts.

https://www.fastcodesign.com/3048737/wears/programmable-clothes-are-going-commercial

I've also come across this video from a TED talk which talks about how fashion technology and sustainability work together. Its fascinating to hear the latest technologies that are being created for the fashion industry and how it is contributing to sustainability. This is particularly interesting with regards to material usage and how it can contribute to the future of the textiles industry.